Fusion 360 for personal use is a limited free version that includes basic functionality and can be renewed on an annual basis. Compare features and functionality between Fusion 360 for personal use and Fusion 360. This is a short Gcode Reference regarding to CNC related feature for Snapmaker 2.0. The Gcode that have been used in Snapmaker 2.0 is quite limited. Share your ideas to improve Snapmaker 2.0 in forrm. Reference G0 / G1. The G0 and G1 commands add a linear move to the queue to be performed after all previous moves are completed. Aug 14, 2020 This is a newbie's guide on 3D modeling and CAM setup for Fusion 360. In this video, you will learn how to create a sketch, create a solid body, import tool library, set 2D pocket, set 2D contour, and post-process you design in Fusion 360, and finally carve it out with Snapmaker 2.0. The tools and material needed.
My most recent project is a Mancala Board! It’s a simple project, but perfect for a Fusion 360 CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) and CNC tutorial. In this project I use the Snapmaker 2.0, 3-in-1 for my CNC. It is the first time I have used a large bit and was able to do some limit testing. Follow along below or checkout the design files on MyMiniFactory.
Fusion 360 CAD 3D Modeling
The first step in this project is to 3D model the part. I used Fusion 360 for this task as it was an easy transition between modeling and generating the G-Code or Toolpath for the CNC. Unfortunately, my Snapmaker A250 has a limited CNC space (230 x 250 x 235 mm). For this reason, I modeled half of the board and cut it out twice.
As with most of my projects, I started with a 2D sketch. I first made a rectangle the outer dimensions of 1 board. Then I added another rectangle for one of the pockets (holes). Using the 2D Sketch fillet tool, I rounded the corners. Finally I copied the pocket and made sure the new holes were lined up.
One of the best features of Fusion 360 2D Sketch is the ability to add constraints. Constraints can be helpful to quickly model an object. In my sketch, I use parallel, tangential, middle, and dimensional constraints. The dimensional style specifically is helpful to quickly update the size of an object.
Now that we have a completed 2D Sketch, it will be easy to create a 3D Model. First I did a press / pull (extrude) to the depth of my stock (15/32″ plywood). For the first extrusion I always go in the negative Z direction. This allows me to “cut” the new details into the stock easily.
I also used the extrude function for the holes. For this operation I did not directly cut out the original object. Instead I made sure to create new objects. This allowed me tweak the holes before finalizing their geometries. Specifically I wanted round edges on the bottom of the holes. This makes the Mancala game easier to play as the player drags beans between pockets.
To make this edit, I simply selected the bottom edge of the pockets. Then I did a fillet operation to round them off. I opted for a very shallow edge as it the easiest for grabbing beans.
Finishing the 3D Model
There is only 1 step left to finalize our CAD model. Cut out the holes from the board. To do this simply use the combine function. Make sure the target body is the base and all the holes are selected as tool bodies. Before hitting ok, check to make sure the operation is set to CUT.
Fusion 360 CAM Toolpath Generation
Now that we have a complete 3D Modeling let’s head over to the Manufacturing section. First we will need to create a new setup. I typically use almost all default settings. I do, however, change two things. One is my stock (starting) point on my Work Coordinate System to a corner on top of the stock. The other is setting “No Additional Stock” on the offset under the stock tab.
For tool path generation it is important to start with larger cuts first. After that you can come back with a finishing pass. Finishing passes are the last operation the machine will do to a part. It is used to clean up any rough edges.
First Cut – 1/4″ Routing Bit
The first cut was to remove a large amount of material in the pockets. This was done with a 3D Adaptive Toolpath. Under the Passes section I checked Machine Cavities and Flat Area Detection.
This cut did a great job with rounding the sides of the pocket. However, It did a crappy job of making a flat bottom. In fact the software actually shows ridges in the model. That’s ok though. We will take care of those ridges with a future path with a different bit designed to make flat sections.
For this original path I used a 1/4″ router bit which is actually oversized for the Snapmaker. My original parameters overloaded the Snapmaker CNC Module. To counteract this, I used the touch screen to slow down the work speed until I saw the RPM was steady 11,000 or more. Ideally a routing operation for wood is set to around 16000 RPM. However, the Snapmaker CNC Module is designed to operate at 12000 RPM.
Do not allow your Snapmaker to get overloaded. This can lead to a lot of problems including fire, damage to the CNC Module, and broken bits. You have been warned.
Final thoughts on other bits… be careful of the bit shaft diameter. The bit I used was a 1/4″ shaft and required me to purchase a new ER11 Collet.
Fusion 360 Snapmaker
Second Cut – 3.175mm Flat End Mill
The second cut I created in Fusion 360 for my tutorial was using a Flat End Mill. This style of bit is great for creating very flat surfaces. Using a second bit is difficult with a Snapmaker. It has no way to handle automated tool changes. If you’re interested in my method for switching bits, checkout my article here.
The operation I selected for this toolpath was a 2D Pocket. For the geometry, I specified only the bottom flat surface. This was intended to be a finishing pass for the pocket. This pass did a great job removing the left over ridges from the original cut.
Final Cut – 3.175mm Flat End Mill
Fusion 360 Snap Maker Reviews
The Fusion 360 CNC Toolpath was simply to cut away the mancala board from the stock. This was a 2D Contour toolpath with rectangular tabs added. Even though I trust the tabs, I still like to do this as my final operation. That way the part retain as much strength as possible during the other operations.
Checkout my guide on creating custom maps for more information on how to do a 2D Contour.
Overall this project turned out great! I love the aesthetic of this simplicity of the wood stain. If you’re interested in a similar project, check out the Peg Game that I created. That post goes into more detail on my finishing and staining process.
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